Products/Procedures for Detailing Black Paint

[1999DakotaRT]

Well, if its not obvious, I have a black extended-cab 1999 Dodge Dakota R/T and as some of you may know, Dodge had some serious issues with their clear coats on some models -- and my truck is no exception. I understand that my paint is beyond repair which is why I will be getting it repainted sometime over the summer. However before the repaint, I'd like to get some advice and use my old paint to learn the proper process to keep my new paint looking flawless for a long time! :cool:

I currently have this Craftsman 10" orbital buffer (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910723000P?keyword=polisher) and would like to know if its any good? I honestly just picked it up at Sears last summer to simply apply some wax because doing it by hand was excessively time consuming and tiring (also, I heard that it was impossible to damage the paint with it). The problem with it is that it appears to only use Craftsman's proprietary pads? Is this true, or is this 10" sized pad a typical size? (This could be particularly problematic since they only offer one level of cutting power). Ultimately, I can get a new one if necessary, this was originally only intended to be a temporary fix anyhow (but saving the additional money would be nice too :)).

Now, in terms of the actual process, is this the correct order and purpose for each step in a full detail:
1. Wash/Dry - Initial cleaning
2. Clay Bar with QD - Remove stubborn contaminants
3. Wash/Dry - Cleans removed contaminants
4. Medium cutting polish if necessary - Removes minor scratches/abrasions from the surface of clear coat
5. Finishing polish - Removes swirl marks left by heavier polishes
6. Glaze - Masks light swirls
7. Sealant - Long lasting protectant for a polished surface that bonds to the clear coat but provides less shine.
8. Wax - Protects polished surface albeit with limited durability but deeper shine.

Please keep in mind that I have a black truck when responding to the following:
What kind of pads and polish would you seasoned detailers use for the initial polish? And the final?
Also, is doing a sealant and then a wax really necessary? It seems to me that they are interchangeable and each have their benefits; thus, considering that I will have ample time to detail my truck weekly, I would like to go for looks as opposed to longevity of the protection. Therefore, I would go for a wax for the added depth? Or would some type of glaze look better with my black paint?

Well, I suppose I should leave it at that for now even though I have so many more questions I'd like answered :confused:. In any case, thank in advance for any and all feedback!

[PorscheGuy997]

Ah yes, the orbital.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22517


Orbitals do not use pads. Rather, they use bonnets. It's hard to say which bonnets are good and bad because there are so many brands. I would just get a bunch of cotton terry bonnets because they work with everything.

[1999DakotaRT]

Ah yes, the orbital.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22517


Orbitals do not use pads. Rather, they use bonnets. It's hard to say which bonnets are good and bad because there are so many brands. I would just get a bunch of cotton terry bonnets because they work with everything.

Wow, I honestly didn't expect a response so quickly -- much less at 4:30am! :D Thanks!

That link is exactly what I needed to know about polishing with machines. I think for now, I'll just stick with what I've got and perhaps do that modification to it. Eventually though, when I become more confident with the overall process I'll throw the PC variable in there too.

[bunky]

I have a 97 Dakota Club Cab and had to get it repainted last year. The clear coat had issues and was worsened when my wife had the trucked detailed (birthday gift) by a "pro" who used a rotary and buffed what clear coat there was away in some spots. This is renewed my interest in serious detailing.

I have not polished the truck yet (on the list in the next month) since last year but I have a UDM and 5-in LC pads and plan to do the spring polishing. The new paint seems especially soft so it is picking up scratches just from microfiber towels, etc.

I plan to use a glaze plus carnauba wax combo.

[Charlies02GLS]

Also, is doing a sealant and then a wax really necessary?
Nope, some people like to layer their wax on top of the sealant to add some depth (sealants tend to mute colors).


Therefore, I would go for a wax for the added depth? Or would some type of glaze look better with my black paint? Danase Wet Glaze is a great option for you since it works really well with most products and does a decent amount of filling. From my own experience I'd shy away from using it with NXT because of the strange and inconsistent beading I had with the combo.

[Russecu]

To further any damage or thining of your clearcoat I wouldn't do much aggressive polishing. Just a good paint cleaner on the polisher would help some. I could see the clearcoat failure in your pics. I hope they fixed that problem before '03. :) Wet Glaze would be a good optioin topped with a sealant or wax. On black I prefer wax. Good luck and welcome.

[Pete]

Orbitals do not use pads. Rather, they use bonnets. It's hard to say which bonnets are good and bad because there are so many brands. I would just get a bunch of cotton terry bonnets because they work with everything.

When I use my orbital machines, it is to apply waxes and sealants. In this case, I've done a great deal of work to refine the finish.

I still recall the time I "ruined" all the polish work I did on a nearly new black car when I was in college. I decided to apply Meguiar's M26 wax with the orbital and a clean terry bonnet. I was more than unhappy, shall we say, with all the tiny marks left by the tufts on the bonnet.

Soon after, I found foam bonnets that had no "cut" and left nothing other than a nice thin layer of wax.

Moving forward, these are still available as are microfiber bonnets. For final wax or sealant, I still prefer the foam, but have used microfiber successfully.

[Pete]

With areas on the Dakota finish that have no clear left, avoid even doing anything beyond washing. All you'll do is get polish or wax in the basecoat or (worse) remove more of it.

Then again, if you are having it painted, this could be a good time to experiment.

At most, glaze the greying/failing areas on the clear, then top with wax or sealant. Glazing oils can help fill in and mask the problem somewhat. It will be a very temporary fix if it does anything.

Using products with cut or cleaning ability remove some or all of what little film remains.

[1999DakotaRT]

I have a 97 Dakota Club Cab and had to get it repainted last year. The clear coat had issues and was worsened when my wife had the trucked detailed (birthday gift) by a "pro" who used a rotary and buffed what clear coat there was away in some spots. This is renewed my interest in serious detailing.

I have not polished the truck yet (on the list in the next month) since last year but I have a UDM and 5-in LC pads and plan to do the spring polishing. The new paint seems especially soft so it is picking up scratches just from microfiber towels, etc.

I plan to use a glaze plus carnauba wax combo.

This is what I did on the left bedside of my truck, the clear coat must've been very near failing at that point and as soon as I ran the orbital over it with some polish, I was shocked as to what I saw :?

With areas on the Dakota finish that have no clear left, avoid even doing anything beyond washing. All you'll do is get polish or wax in the basecoat or (worse) remove more of it.

Then again, if you are having it painted, this could be a good time to experiment.

At most, glaze the greying/failing areas on the clear, then top with wax or sealant. Glazing oils can help fill in and mask the problem somewhat. It will be a very temporary fix if it does anything.

Using products with cut or cleaning ability remove some or all of what little film remains.

Okay, after the clear on the bedside stripped off I completely stopped doing any sort of detailing aside from regular washes because I was afraid to damage the paint any more.

Overall, from all the info you all have provided for me, I should essentially avoid using any more polishes to prevent further damage to my clear coat (though I may practice on my my hood since that paint is relatively fresh). However, applying a glaze via a terry cloth bonnet and a wax with a foam bonnet may temporarily cover the damage up to some extent. Also, Danase Wet Glaze works well with black, does anybody have an opinion on a wax that cooperates with that glaze and really makes black paint look deep?

Thank you all for the help!!!

[Russecu]

One thing good about Wet Glaze (DWG) is that it can be used with either a wax or sealant. A wax to complement the black. Danase Paste comes to mind, Clearkote Carnuba Moose, CG 50/50 these a the ones I have tried and like and you can get them with your DWG.

[3puttjay]

I have my dad's 20 year old Wen buffer/polisher sitting in my garage and I have to tell you that it could not get rid of swirls or scratchs on my car. You might be better off getting a PC or letting a pro remove those scratchs and swirls and then maintaining their work. I have been using collinite waxes (845 IW and 476S) and have found them both to be durable if you apply multiple layers (a good six months outside 24/7 ). I have S100 wax as well and it really is pleasant to put on and take off, but durability is only a month or two. I tried my brother in laws Zymol Titanium and it is very deep but I could only get 3 weeks out of it before it stopped beading. I haven't tried any sealants but i have heard good things about Zaino. I might try some Zaino just to see what all the hype is about.

[nsxtasy]

Apply the Wet glaze and wax by hand, dont risk using your craftsman.

look into picking up a porter cable or Ultimate Detailing Machine and a nice set of pads and polishes when you get a repaint and for the rest of the unaffected areas of your paint.

[Egleone6]

On my black Altima, I go like this

Wash
Clay
Pure Polish/Swirl remover
DPS Sealant
IW845 Wax
DWG (Glaze)