Got my order today

[ruazfast]

:D I'm really excited, I got my Poorboy's product that I ordered from Steve, as that is when he told me about the site. haha and he did not charge me for that either, anyhow I will most likely have to wait for the weekend :( WOW the box smelled soooo good when I opened it, anyhow any advise would be welcome as I have a PC and just got some Lake Country pads from Bob last week. Here is what I got;
PB SSR 2.5
PB SSR 1
PB Polish with Carnuba Wax
PB Natty's Blue Paste Wax
PB Air Freshener (It was a Free Sample) :D
and some more MF Towels as you can never have enough.

Please keep in mind that I have black vehicles that have swirls :( and really want to clean them up :lol: they do not look super bad until you start picking at them and I hate swirls.
Anyhow I have a wish list going and Bob has a 10 % sale going. :wink: :P

[awd330]

Here are some general guidelines for the products you listed:

SSR2.5 - Apply a moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Do one panel at a time. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 5-6. If swirls are moderate, step up to an orange light cut pad. You may need to do multiple passes to achieve your desired results (especially since we're talking about black paint).

SSR1 - Apply a moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Do one panel at a time. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 4-5. This should help to clean up any hazing that may have occurred with SSR2.5.

PwC - Apply a small to moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Apply to entire vehicle, then immediately begin wiping off the residue. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 4-5. You may also opt to use a black finishing pad for more gloss but less cleaning power.

Natty's Blue - Apply by hand using a foam applicator pad dampened with water. Apply to 1-2 panels at a time, then wipe off the residue.


[Note: Prior to the first pass with a dry applicator pad, apply a moderate amount in a circle around the highest ridge of the pad. "Prime" the pad by using your fingers to massage the product into and across the surface of the pad. Then, apply a second round of product to the pad. You only need to "prime" the pad in this manner for the beginning of the first pass (when it's completely dry). Some products works best when the pad is primed using a spritz of water or some quick detailing spray. However, the SSRs and PwC should NOT be primed with water or a QD.]

[ruazfast]

Here are some general guidelines for the products you listed:

SSR2.5 - Apply a moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Do one panel at a time. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 5-6. If swirls are moderate, step up to an orange light cut pad. You may need to do multiple passes to achieve your desired results (especially since we're talking about black paint).
They say it is pretty safe with a PC so you really don't think I will hurt it on that high of speed and how long do I work it, I believe until it's a light haze ?

SSR1 - Apply a moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Do one panel at a time. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 4-5. This should help to clean up any hazing that may have occurred with SSR2.5.
Again until it is a light haze ?

PwC - Apply a small to moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Apply to entire vehicle, then immediately begin wiping off the residue. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 4-5. You may also opt to use a black finishing pad for more gloss but less cleaning power.
Gloss you really got my attention there, however can I have my cake and eat it to because I want both. Also since I only have 1 white pad I need to clean after each product right ? I checked the store and do not see where they are sold sperately which really makes it hard. Advise please

Natty's Blue - Apply by hand using a foam applicator pad dampened with water. Apply to 1-2 panels at a time, then wipe off the residue.


[Note: Prior to the first pass with a dry applicator pad, apply a moderate amount in a circle around the highest ridge of the pad. "Prime" the pad by using your fingers to massage the product into and across the surface of the pad. Then, apply a second round of product to the pad. You only need to "prime" the pad in this manner for the beginning of the first pass (when it's completely dry). Some products works best when the pad is primed using a spritz of water or some quick detailing spray. However, the SSRs and PwC should NOT be primed with water or a QD.]

I believe I need to tape off the trim on the top of the bed of the truck so I do not get it messed up. And 1 more thing how the heck do you get the wax/polish out of the door handles and such places without doing any damage, as they are painted like the rest of the truck not plastic.

I really want to Thank you for your advise as I know that you hear horror stories about people not knowing the right thing to do and end up worst off then when they started. I am really lucky to have found this forum. Thank you for taking the time as I love when our vehicles look nice, black can be such a pain to maintain and we keep saying we are not going to buy it again but haha guess what. I can't help it, it looks so cool when clean and shiny. :wink:

[Bob]

You should not have to tape off trim when using Poorboy's. I have yet to see Poorboy's trim and is the main reason I switch from my old stuff to Poorboy's a few years ago. :)

[awd330]

Here are some general guidelines for the products you listed:

SSR2.5 - Apply a moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Do one panel at a time. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 5-6. If swirls are moderate, step up to an orange light cut pad. You may need to do multiple passes to achieve your desired results (especially since we're talking about black paint).
They say it is pretty safe with a PC so you really don't think I will hurt it on that high of speed and how long do I work it, I believe until it's a light haze ?

SSR1 - Apply a moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Do one panel at a time. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 4-5. This should help to clean up any hazing that may have occurred with SSR2.5.
Again until it is a light haze ?

PwC - Apply a small to moderate amount to a dry applicator pad (i.e. do not prime with water). Apply to entire vehicle, then immediately begin wiping off the residue. Apply by PC with a Lake Country white polishing pad at speed 4-5. You may also opt to use a black finishing pad for more gloss but less cleaning power.
Gloss you really got my attention there, however can I have my cake and eat it to because I want both. Also since I only have 1 white pad I need to clean after each product right ? I checked the store and do not see where they are sold sperately which really makes it hard. Advise please

Natty's Blue - Apply by hand using a foam applicator pad dampened with water. Apply to 1-2 panels at a time, then wipe off the residue.


[Note: Prior to the first pass with a dry applicator pad, apply a moderate amount in a circle around the highest ridge of the pad. "Prime" the pad by using your fingers to massage the product into and across the surface of the pad. Then, apply a second round of product to the pad. You only need to "prime" the pad in this manner for the beginning of the first pass (when it's completely dry). Some products works best when the pad is primed using a spritz of water or some quick detailing spray. However, the SSRs and PwC should NOT be primed with water or a QD.]

I believe I need to tape off the trim on the top of the bed of the truck so I do not get it messed up. And 1 more thing how the heck do you get the wax/polish out of the door handles and such places without doing any damage, as they are painted like the rest of the truck not plastic.

I really want to Thank you for your advise as I know that you hear horror stories about people not knowing the right thing to do and end up worst off then when they started. I am really lucky to have found this forum. Thank you for taking the time as I love when our vehicles look nice, black can be such a pain to maintain and we keep saying we are not going to buy it again but haha guess what. I can't help it, it looks so cool when clean and shiny. :wink:
The SSRs should be worked until they look like they have almost disappeared. I would caution against using the term "haze" in this case because that word is also commonly used to describe a side effect of using a harsher abrasive or machine pad (e.g. "I used a heavy cutting pad and it left hazing behind."). In that context, haze means that the product or pad caused thousands of tiny scratches that left the surface looking dull. When speaking of a wax or sealant, the word "haze" often means the point at which the product has dried and can be safely removed.

SSR2.5 must be used at a high PC speed to properly break down the abrasives. If you play it "safe" by using a lower speed, you may actually increase your chances of marring your finish with SSR2.5. SSR2 and SSR1 can be used at slightly lower speeds.

If you are going from SSR2.5 to SSR1 and then to PwC, you will probably no longer need to take advantage of the cleaning properties of PwC. In this instance, you can use the black finishing pad effectively. When using PwC as a stand alone product, or without preceding with a light polish (like SSR1), it would be wise to use a white polishing pad.

Regarding taping off trim, I never do this when using a PC. I prefer to use caution during the application process (try to keep the product off the trim in the first place). The design of the Lake Country Curved Edge pads really helps in this case because the pad can be angled in tight spots. In some cases, I will deliberately include trim pieces in my machine buffing steps. I will do this for the rubber seal areas around the outer glass sections, headlights, and other smooth trim areas. I will not do this for textured trim. After I am done with all my machine buffing and hand waxing, I will go back and dress any textured trim that still requires dressing. If there is still dried residue stuck in crevices, you can use a very soft toothbrush to clean up.

[Mirrored_Images]

And 1 more thing how the heck do you get the wax/polish out of the door handles and such places without doing any damage, as they are painted like the rest of the truck not plastic.

I hold the door handle open like well you are opening the door and wipe with a MF towel. Or if it is a small groove such as where two body panels come together I use a Credit card with a MF wrapped around it to get into the seam. A small Boar's hair brush dipped in a little QD will also get tight areas cleaned without scratching the surrounding paint.

I dont suggest using a soft toothbrush or nylon bristles for this, they will cause scratches most of the time.

[ruazfast]

Thanks, Yea now that you say that about using the PC on a high speed to break down the product, I do remember hearing that. Well I should be good to go this weekend. Thanks again everyone for your time and help. :wink:

[ruazfast]

Did the Lightning this weekend, turned out pretty good expect the Passenger side has some hazing in it still, I believe I will just need to go back over it with some SSR 1 and hopefully it will take it out. I will try to get a pic posted the pic page.