Optimum Car Polish New Formula

[Pete]

Haven't used any of the Optimum products, but I've read a great deal on various sites--leads me to some questions before I buy

I'm trying to find a product that finishes well and accepts waxes and sealants without having to strip some oily glaze off first.

Many disucssions mention long working time and no dusting with OCP.
Low dust is good, but I'm not sure about the working time comments.

I'll use it on a rotary as well as a DA.

Does it start as a liquid, then break down into a clearer/hazy film when it's time to wipe (as so many other products do)?

Do you have to work it longer than average or are people saying that it just doesn't go dry and dusty as fast? I don't want to get something that makes my rotary time longer per product.

[Bob]

You won't have any oil left with the Optimum.

The long working time just means that the product does not dry out fast allowing you to work it more and in return getting better results. It allows the product to breakdown all the way instead of drying up halfway through.

Will work great with both. The Hyper Compound should be used for rotary though.

It starts off as a white liquid, not really a hazy film when it's time to buff but you will be able to tell. Hopefully someone can explain that part better than me.

You should get the job done faster because it won't dry out fast.

[Russecu]

I think the longer working time is great for using a DA/PC because the heat generated by the PC is less than a rotary allowing the PC to better break down the polish before it dries. I think the rotary should have normal working time as it will break down the polish with the heat generated by the rotary.

[Pete]

The Hyper Compound should be used for rotary though.

Thanks for the tip. I've heard people compare the cut on OHC to that of Meguiar's M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish. Is this an accurate comparison? M83 is one I've used since they first introduced their 80s series in 1995-ish.

Also, the way it breaks down makes sense to me. When I first read about long work times a while ago, I pictured this layer of caulk looking material that just seemed to smudge around and never break down. Now I know better.

[Pete]

I think the longer working time is great for using a DA/PC because the heat generated by the PC is less than a rotary allowing the PC to better break down the polish before it dries.

That makes sense. I just received my new Cyclo in today's UPS, so I'll see if that offers a bit more power than the PC.

On average, how long do you work OCP in one area with the PC? With most products, unless I use too much, I'll go around 2 minutes or less in a 2' X 2' area.

[Russecu]

I would say I work it about 4-5 minutes with the PC. After a couple passes I got the feel of how it looked when it had broken so that helped. To me it seemed to go somewhat clear and I would wie it off beofre it hazed.

[Pete]

Thanks for the info!

[Bob]

Pete,
I can not compare it to Meguiar's because I honestly can not remember the last time I used a Meguiar's product. Someone on here should be able to compair though.

[Pete]

Decided to resurrect my old thread since I now have some experience with Optimum Polish

The comments in this thread and others on here passed through my mind as I used the product.

The experience lead me to some other questions.

[Pete]

The first test subject was this 2000 Pontiac Bonneville.

In this picture, I show the spoiler after using OP on the rotary at 1400 RPM on a green foam polishing pad which I suspect is a Lake Country pad. (given to me several years ago)

It left some polisher swirls, as expected with a fairly stiff pad. Product seemed to work longer than the Meguiar's and 3M I'm accustomed to using.

EDIT: I was mistaken on this green pad. It is a light cut classic Edge velcro pad.

[Pete]

Removal came in the way of Meguiar's M80 Speed Glaze and 1400 RPM's on a W8000 foam (their 8" polishing pad which is fairly mild).

My last step came with another of the Meguiar's products called Swirl Free Polish, M82. I used my Christmas Gift Cyclo Polisher and the white Cyclo pads (their softest).

[Pete]

The M80 took the OP swirls off right away. Regrettably, I didn't have time to play with OP too much since I was under time constraints. The results were pleasing to the eye. I'll do more of a writeup in a different section.

[Nimble]

Nice work and thanks for the info. I work OP in for 3-4 min at speed 6 and green edge 2k pads on my pc 7424.

[Pete]

Thoughts:

*OP took longer to break down (mentioned above)

*OP is a very low dust product-nice feature

*OP appears to be an "honest" product. An isopropyl wipedown showed me that it isn't laden with filling and hiding characteristics.

*OP lasted long enough to fully break down on the paint surface.
This was a characteristic that Bob mentioned I would appreciate.
Some products seem to start working, then go dry so fast that you're left with marring since the abrasives don't get a chance to fully degrade.

*OP did seem to take me a bit more effort to work the product than my staples.
I describe it as a bit "grabby", bot during application and removal as well.

*OP's consistency: not a runny mess or a thick, cake icing type Right in the middle

Any comments about my observations are appreciated. If I'm way off base, tell me!

I'm working on a writeup of a full detail relying heavily on OP.

[Nimble]

Your observations are spot on, I couldn't have said it better myself. ;)

[Bence]

Pete, I have one little add-on: OP doesn't leave marring and it will finish down absolutely LSP-ready.
If you got marring, you are probably using too much. This gives overlubrication and reduced effectivity as the abrasives are unable to strike through the polishing film. This results in incomplete abrasive breakdown and a typically finely marred surface. In your case the stiffer green pad was *maybe* the cause of the marring but usually I can finish with light cutting pad LSP-ready with OP.

On a primed pad you should use 3-4 pea sized drops per working area (typically 2×2).

[Pete]

Bence, I appreciate your suggestions. After reading, I realized a mistake. The pad was actually a light cut classic Edge velcro pad and not a Lake Country pad as I'd initially guessed.

I truly wish I had that Bonneville back to try other pads with OP on the same paint surfaces. My inclination is that the Meguiar's W8000 would've been just right.

[Bence]

Yep, practicing with (the correct amounts of) OP, will always bring the results. I've never used an Edge pad, so I can not comment on them. I'm using Riwax and Menzerna pads.

[mShu7]

Where can I get a couple of Cyclo sized backing plates like the ones in the picture below?

http://www.danaseforums.com/forums/files/resizecyclo_and_white_foam_finishing_pad_929.jpg

[Bob]

We carry them but we are currently out and probably won't have them back in stock for another week. :(

[mShu7]

Thanks for the info Bob!