Basic Polishing Question

[Bull]

I was just reading through the articles about detailing here, including the one on removing swirl marks. This sentence confused me a bit, addressing polishes:

"Start with the least abrasive first and if that does not remove the swirls go to the next. Never start with the most abrasive and work down."

Now, I bought the Optimum kit, with the Hyper Compound, Compoung, and Polish. I believe that I was supposed to start with the Hyper, which is the most aggressive, and work my way up. But, wouldn't that contradict what the quoted article says to do?

I am sure this is a noob question, but that is because I am a noob :oops:

[BlueZero]

Ya, you kind of do it both ways. When you do a test spot to see what works, you want to start with the least aggressive. Just because you don't want to remove more clear coat than is needed. Then you do the car, you start with the most aggressive product. In other words, don't wet sand a car if a light polish will do. Did that make sence?

[Russecu]

I was just reading through the articles about detailing here, including the one on removing swirl marks. This sentence confused me a bit, addressing polishes:

"Start with the least abrasive first and if that does not remove the swirls go to the next. Never start with the most abrasive and work down."

Now, I bought the Optimum kit, with the Hyper Compound, Compoung, and Polish. I believe that I was supposed to start with the Hyper, which is the most aggressive, and work my way up. You are kind of right in this sense and have the right concept but I will explain below. But, wouldn't that contradict what the quoted article says to do?

I am sure this is a noob question, but that is because I am a noob :oops:

When you are starting out the poishing process why would you want to start with the most aggressive (Hyper-compound) when all you may need is a polish (OP) to get the job done? You want to use products that will barely remove the imperfection as to leave as much clear coat/paint on the vehicle. In other words if the OP and an orange LC pads will remove the marring or spider webbing then you will remove less paint and have less steps b/c I find OP to finish LSP ready. If you started with Hyper or Compound then you would more than likely have to follow it with polish or poli-seal. So basically when you start you will work yourself from least aggressive to most aggressive to find the correct product to remove the defects. After that you will have to move from the most aggressive product you used to the least to remove any marring left from the more agressive products.
Hope this helps and I hope I didn't confuse you more. I think I said the same thing 2 or three different ways so I hope its not confusing. :)

[Bull]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

The reason I used the sequence that I did, is because I asked for the advice of a very well-respected detailer. Here is what he said:

"You will want to start with the Hyper Compound, then move to the Compound, then to the Polish.
If you REALLY want to do it right here is what I would do using LCM pads.
One pass with the Hyper and a yellow pad. Follow up with Compound and a green pad. Follow that up with Polish and a green pad and then Polish with a white pad.

I would stick with the 5.25" pads for now. Those should be fine. The 4" pads are mainly used with the PC for spot buffing. "

[Grimm]

The person you asked is technically correct. The problem is that he is assuming that your finish is very badly swirled and/or scratched. I did exactly that, starting with Hyper Compound, and moved to the Polish, but that was because my car was very badly swirled and scratched so I knew that the Polish wasn't going to cut it. The actual process for polishing is like he/she said, start with the most aggressive, and end with the least aggressive to get the best finish. But what we are all saying by starting with the least aggressive is like others have said, you don't want to use the aggressive stuff if you don't need to. It's like using a chain saw to cut a one inch branch off a tree. It will work, but it's not necessary.

[wifehatescar]

Good explaination Grimm.

[Pete]

Look at it from a different perspective: Don't be any more aggressive to the paint than is necessary.

Grimm, wanna come trim some trees in my yard? :lol:

[Bull]

Ok, I think I understand it now.

But, let's say certain spots on the paint have deeper scuffs/scratches, and neighboring areas are lacking such damage. Do you use the more aggressive stuff on just the damaged area, or the whole panel?

[BigLeegr]

Just on the damaged areas. By removing the damage, you are removing your paint. You shouldn't remove any more paint than absolutely needed. (Too thin and you get clearcoat failure.)
Of course, after you use the more aggressive stuff, make sure to finish with the milder stuff so you have a uniform look. I've seen some cars that have a big dull spot in the center of a door where (I'm guessing) they tried to rub out a scratch with rubbing compound (probably the red Turtle Wax stuff) and then seemingly just waxed over it. :o Not a pretty sight! :oops: